COMMON PROBLEMS AND DIAGNOSTICS

1. If you see a blinking power LED on the front panel and hear a 
ticking sound coming from the monitor but it will not start up, 
suspect an open capacitor in the power supply. C111 is a 1uF 50V
electrolytic that can cause that problem. The fuse F101 (4A) will 
not blow. Also check or just replace C110 (10uF 50V). 

2. Dead monitor, no front panel LED indication. If you find 
resistor R106 (1 ohm 2 Watt) open, the main switching IC (I101) 
is probably shorted. This usually blows the input fuse F101 (4A). 
Change the above two electrolytic caps along with the IC and 
resistor before you power up the monitor, and check the resistance 
of the supply lines on the secondary side of the supply to see if 
there are any overloads there. Clean off the heat sink and apply 
fresh heat sink grease to the IC before you mount the new part. 
     If the 110VDC supply line reads low or shorted (measure D103
cathode to ground resistance), check the H output transistor Q202.
If it's shorted, check all the solder connections (or just resolder
to be sure) in the H sweep circuit, especially the H driver 
transformer T201 and all solder connections on the flyback (line 
output transformer) T202. 

3. Vertical collapse (just horizontal line across the screen). 
Check the solder connections on I301 or just resolder all the pins.
Always use fresh solder... don't just reflow the old. If that 
doesn't fix it, check resistor R238 (1 ohm 1 Watt) to see if it's
open. If so, check diode D211 for shorts. 
     If the picture is stretched or shrunken vertically, check (or
just replace) all the small electrolytic caps in the vertical 
circuit. Don't try to adjust out a fault like that... it will not
fix the problem and running it that way could cause a major 
failure like the vertical IC.